She begins her tale explaining how she was working as a critic in California and is wooed to return to New York to write for the prestigious New York Times. She soon discovers that to properly review many restaurants, she has to go incognito. The most prestigious seemed to be on the look out for her, and it was clear her service was different than that of the regular diner.
Ruth documents various costumes she uses in an attempt to see 'real' service at several restaurants, and is shocked to find the way she feels when in character for her various made up disguises. Some of these are quite amusing, even zesty, while others a little bland, just like the food in her descriptions. It's charming that her son is not tricked by any disguise, though most everyone else is. And it's clear that she realizes what is the most important thing in her life, her family.
We noticed that from the beginning of the book she seems down to earth, friendly and connected with most on such a universal delight-food. But by the end, she has become, or at least started down the path of, the utter snobbery she so despised at the beginning of the book. She looks down on those without her sensitive palate and realizes that isn't who she is.
It's an interesting book, not your average read, and filled with savory recipes. Some with ingredients we'd never heard of. Definitely makes you want to go out to dinner, or whip up something fancy, and it is a curious look at how we treat one another based on appearance, status and title, not to mention tastes.
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